“I guess it always begins closer to home, maybe the 1st ascent of Lou Ferrino in Parasellas Cave. I’d been climbing for around a year, so was pretty pleased to nail a font 7c+ so rapidly. Looking further afield, one of my life goals was Power of Goodbye font 8b, over in Maltatal, Austria. To have got this was just incredible. There are so many really. La Prou in Switzerland was quite a proud moment. Maybe Private Idaho back in North Wales? This might be 8b+, so maybe that’s more of an achievement that memorable experience. I always think back to doing Jacadi Left-Hand in Fontainebleau (Canche aux Merciers), which had been tried by Sebastian Frigault. To get a 1st ascent of an 8a+ over there was just stunning, and the move was BIG”
Why taking care of your skin is important to you and your climbing?
“I love small, sharp holds and big moves which always tear the hell out of my skin. I also campus a huge amount, so it drives me nuts when my skin gets thin. I have a habit of ruining my skin most sessions, so Monkey Fist works extremely well for me – it’s rapid.”
Top grades, hardest onsights, Ascents your psyched on having done?
“A Life Aesthetic and Private Idaho Font 8b/+ (Swiss Lines), East Coker font 8b+ (long!), Power of Goodbye 8b (hard!), Poppy’s Move font 8b (rad!), Jacadi LH (great 1st). There are tons of great lines in some inspiring places. Roswell (font 8a+) third attempt was great over at Chironico, as was flashing Le DoightVerte (font 8a) on the same day. I got Schule de lebens (font 8b) over there as well, to many to list really.”
Future climbing goals?
“Just to keep doing my thing really. I’ve a fair few projects, so just working through these I guess. I’ve a trip planned to Sri Lanka in April, with some incredible rocks out there, and also Indian Himalaya in June. I know that a few people have been pretty busy over there developing so it would be nice to get a chance to have a look at that stuff. Silveretta is a major aim in October 2015 as there is a line there that I’ve been hoping to visit and send for a few years. The Ace is on my radar again as I narrowly missed the 2nd ascent of this in 2001. I think I have enough to keep me busy until I have to stop – it would be nice to think that I might inspire people to look around, adventure and try not to go to the same old places.”
“I think I may have forgotten why I don’t climb. Over the years bouldering has given me real focus, and has opened up my eyes as to what I can achieve as an individual. I’ve met some amazing people and have made new friends worldwide, all though the medium of climbing. I love the sense of freedom and adventure. I’ve travelled pretty much everywhere from the UK to Central America and have been involved in some wonderful scenarios. The sense of raw power and energy that come hand in hand with the execution of hard boulder problems - now that is addictive!”